The Madison is probably the most fabled River in the West and for good reason. It flows through some beautiful landscapes and serves up consistent action for nice rainbows, browns and whitefish. Having made a strong recovery from whirling disease it’s safe to say that the river is back and once again one of Montana’s top angling destinations. You can divide it into two dramatically different sections outside of Yellowstone National Park: the Upper and the Lower. The Upper Madison refers to the river from Hebgen Dam down to Ennis Lake, while the Lower Madison refers to the water below Ennis Lake all the way to the headwaters of the Missouri.
The Upper Madison outside of the Park begins its journey below Hebgen dam. There is a short stretch of fishable water before the river hits Quake Lake, which was formed by a landslide that occurred in 1959. This stretch between the lakes is home to a lot of nice fish, especially in the spring and fall when trout move up out of Quake Lake to spawn. From the outlet of Quake Lake down to Lyons Bridge, the river is closed to float fishing and provides wading anglers with plenty of spots to fish. The stretch from Ennis to Ennis Lake is also closed to float fishing and is another popular destination for the angler on foot. Reynolds Pass, Three Dollar Bridge, Eight Mile Ford and Valley Garden are all good access points. The section from Lyon’s Bridge to Ennis is typically considered best suited for boat fisherman with the ability to cover water.
The Lower Madison is a unique alternative to the Upper River. It provides anglers with abundant public access and a healthy population of rainbows and browns. Immediately below Ennis Lake the river passes through the picturesque Bear Trap Canyon. The canyon offers about 8 miles of pocket water, deep holes and weed beds. Considering the absence of a boat ramp below the dam and the presence of a Class IV rapid known as the “Kitchen Sink”, this section of river is rarely floated except by those with rafts and solid whitewater experience. Starting around the Warm Springs fishing access, the river begins its gradual retreat from the canyon towards the open valley below. It is here, that most floating begins. The stretch from Warm Springs to Black’s Ford is also popular for wading anglers because nearly all of it is accessible thanks to state land that borders the river.
Trout populations are substantial between Warm Springs and Grey Cliff. This stretch of river is often considered difficult to read and figure out because it all looks the same at first glance. Concentrate on weed bed edges and deep holes, keeping in mind that such “deep” spots are seldom more than 2-3 feet deep. Many such spots exist in the middle of the river – those who stay oriented towards the banks will miss much of what the river has to offer.
Nymphing is the most consistent method for catching the browns and rainbows that call this stretch of river home. A typical Lower Madison nymph rig starts with a sculpin or crayfish pattern trailed by a small soft hackle or bead head nymph. The San Juan worm is another proven pattern for the Lower Madison. In late April or early May the Mother’s Day Caddis hatch provides the best opportunity for dry fly fishing on the Lower, but generally speaking this section of river is not known as a dry fly haven.
Downstream from Black’s Ford, wading access is limited to the Grey Cliff and Cobblestone Fishing Access Sites. Float fisherman should note that Cobblestone does not have a boat ramp and as a result, floaters must travel from Grey Cliff all the way to the I-90 bridge near Three Forks (nearly 17 miles). Fish numbers drop as you get down into the lower stretch of the Madison, but there are some very large fish and lots of beautiful water.
Due to its shallow nature and warm water discharges from Ennis Lake during the summer months, the Lower Madison could be considered a seasonal fishery. From mid September through the end of June, water temperatures are prime. Once the water warms to the 70 degree mark during July and August, the river’s fish become relatively inactive. This, coupled with the fact that the Lower Madison becomes a popular inner tubing destination during the summer, tends to put it on the bottom of the list for that time of the year.
For more information on the Lower or Upper Madison Rivers, please call The River’s Edge fly shop at 406-586-5373 or send us an email at info@theriversedge.com.
Kit Sawyer
The River’s Edge
